WEEK TWO- Cuenca

Cuenca (Santa Ana de los Ríos de Cuenca) is a city in southern Ecuador’s Andes mountains. It’s known for its Tomebamba River waterfront and handicrafts including Panama hats. Its central plaza, Parque Calderón, is home to the blue-domed New Cathedral and the 16th-century Old Cathedral, now a religious museum. The Pumapungo Archaeological Park and Museum displays ruins and artifacts from the Incan city of Tomebamba. Altitude of 8,400 ft.

Image result for maps of ecuador/cuenca

Jan. 6th, 2020- Mon. Welcome to hell. Yup I guess it had to happen sooner or later. In all of our years traveling we have been very fortunate. No mishaps, no issues, no misfortune. Til today! Our bus pulled up to where we were to get on and I got all excited as Bill had talked to the driver and the driver said the bus was only three months old. Very swank. So, we loaded up and got moving. It was around 90 degrees outside and I couldn’t wait to sit in the nice air conditioning. Well, guess what? There wasn’t any. After several people complained the driver finally opened the door for some relief. But then closed it again after a short while. It was so hot I stopped sweating . No lie. After about an hour and a half, we reached the mountains and it started to cool down. So another hour and a half and we made it to Cuenca. So glad to step out into the fresh mountain air. Then, Bill felt for his phone and I was gone. He had it in the seat just a few minutes before we got off. Went back in to check our seats and it was gone. I know you may be thinking no big deal, but let me tell you. IT IS! When you have all of your hosts travel info, uber acc., messenger, etc. we had no way of contacting anyone, including our landlord. Bill was very upset to say the least. Ready to pack it all in. I know how he felt as I had my camera stolen in Honduras. Not quite the same but I could sympathize. Then we couldn’t get a cab in front of the bus station. People kept jumping the cue. This made things worse. Well, we found the address but there was no way to get in. Bill went next door to the bar and found someone to help. I just started ringing all of the door buzzers til someone answered. It was now after 4:00. Nothing to eat basically all day, used up all of our water bottles, and I had a screaming headache. Now I too was an un-happy camper. Bill got a hold of the credit card company that was tied with the Uber acc. Now we had to find a phone store to see if they would put the money we pre-paid for a chip here on hold until we could get another ph. No deal. Even after I took them the receipts, and chip holder. I don’t understand as they had it all in front of the them on the computer. The man said,” it is not possible.” So I told them that we would need to buy a new phone but it wasn’t going to be from them. BLAH!!! The apt is cute but small. Thank goodness there is an amazing roof top space. The good thing about going to the ph. store was I heard a band in the street and ran out to see what was going on. Pretty good band for a bunch of” street walkers”. LOL Seeing and hearing this lightened my day considerably.

Jan. 7th, 2020 Tues.-Up and walking by 8:00. We did some grocery shopping and hit the local fruit and veggie market. Had an amazing meal of fresh pork at the market. We will be going back there again soon. All kinds of yummy eats there. Then up to the town square to find the tourist bureau and get a map as we no longer had google maps on a ph. My ph. is not unlocked. We found the flower market, bought a bottle of holy water, I was suppose to be asking for Water of the flowers, the artisans market, a huge church, and bought a phone. One Bill got all of his stuff reloaded things got a little better. Cooked first meal, spaghetti.

Jan. 8th, 2020 Wed- Morning walk goes without saying. What a nice place to walk. Along the river, etc. The weather is perfect here. Almost identical to where we used to stay in the mountains in Panama. We found some more churches that will need further exploring. Perhaps they will all be open on Sunday. I finally got my cup of Flor de agua. Not a whole lot of taste but the nuns make it so it must be good for ya. Bill was finally ready for a cocktail in the afternoon so we went thirty steps out the back door and had one. Turns out the owner is living in the same facility we are and is a gringo originally from Albuquerque. He has been here for 10 years. We think this will be a good place to watch the super bowl. For dinner Bill had thought a shawarma sounded good so we went a block down to an Indian restaurant but ended up getting garlic chicken that was out of this world. All of the good food here is going to make me fat. Good thing we decided to take the city stairs up to apt. 102 from the river.

Jan. 9th, 2020 Thurs- Well, well. I should have learned by now to watch what you wish for. This morning was a good example. We decided to take our morning walk down stream to find where another river dumps in, and a big Inca historical site. Left at 9:30. Well, we found them both. Some how got turned around on the rivers walking back and ended up miles out of the way. So, what started out as an hour and a half walk turned into over three. We figure we walked over 6 miles. We were both pooped, hungry and tired, when we finally got back after 1:00. Had some lunch and a rest to re-charge. I slept for three hours. Headed out for some fresh bananas, eggs, dinner. A simple fried chicken and fries for $2.00 was good enough for tonight. Too bushed to care.

Jan.10,2020 Fri.- This morning’s walk took us to the North of our flat. We found another huge mercado, two plazas with local goods, saw some amazing gowns, cherries from Chile, we entered a couple of churches and climbed the 156 steps up the tower at the “New Church”, which is called that only because it isn’t finished yet. They have been working on it for 100 years. A good lunch and rest before walking across the river to two museums,and hitting the large grocery store. Dinner with Sangria.

Jan. 11, 2020 Sat- Wow, what a fun filled, music packed, swinging day! Our goal today was to find the ancient stone cave ovens and the bakery district. We found the old ruins but not the bakeries. Unless they weren’t open that early in the morning. We continues north headed to a different section of town. Well, as luck would have it we stumbled onto the Fiesta Los Ninos parade. What a sight! All kinds of dancers, bands, “floats”, costumes, etc. The parade lasted about and hour and a half. How fun. After all of that cultur I was in the mood to try a traditional favorite. It is very similar to whipped egg whites and sugar with a little extra fruit liquid thrown in. SO YUMMY!!!! Needing to walk that off we walked towards the third large indoor market to see if they had anything different than the other two. I did find a bunch of local chocolate items, and bought a little to try. This has no sugar and in very bitter mostly used in cooking, coffee, hot chocolate, etc. Upstairs was more of the roasted pork. Who could resist another plate of that? It was now after 1:00 and time to rest. The afternoon we took our first bus ride up the south side of the mountain to the highest view point here in Cuenca called TURI. 8421 ft.elevation. Nice view. We walked up more stairs once there to get a little higher and to take a ride on a swing that goes out over the cliff. That was not as scary as I had thought it would be, but it is on the top things to do list to I had to of course. We had something to drink, my first hot chocolate. Once again with the natural cocoa. I added a lot of sugar and it was delicious. Probably not my last. Came back hoping to watch the playoff games, but the satellite was acting up and was only able to keep tabs on the scoring of the second game. We have had a very busy first week here in Cuenca and are going to start venturing out of the city in the next week. Going up for some aqua baths and I think the nature preserve/zoo. The effects of Monday’s incident have faded but still in the back of Bill’s mind.

Ecuador/Mx winter 2020

Guayaquil, pronounced WHY-UH-KEY, is a port city in Ecuador, known as a gateway to Pacific beaches and the Galapagos Islands. Stretching along the Guayas River is the waterfront Simón Bolívar promenade, home to La Rotonda monument. In the north, Las Peñas is a neighborhood full of colorful houses. Stairs lined with cafes and art galleries lead up Santa Ana Hill, site of Santa Ana chapel, a lighthouse and views of the city.

Image result for maps of guayaquil ecuador

Our stops this year will be Guayaquil, Cuenca,and Salinas all in the southern end of the country.

Dec. 30, 2019-Greetings to all new and old to the blog. I look forward to sharing our trip with you again this year. Please feel free to comment and ask for pics along the way. I enjoy sharing with you what you want to see. This year we are off for another new adventure. We will be spending six weeks around Ecuador then moving on to the Baja of Mx. I know, I said twelve years ago I would never go back to Mx. However, it wont be Cancun.

So, to start our trip I met Bill in Panama City, Panama for our jumping off place. He had been on the other side of the country for 17 days in Boquete, in the mountains. We get a 25% discount on tickets if going thru Panama, so that’s what we did. We spent two nights at the Riande Hotel. Very nice “oasis” . Pool and pool bar, games, water fall, orchids, etc. Nice place to plop for a day to re-acclimate. We lounged by the pool and read all day and had a nice chicken shish-k-bob for dinner, pool side.

All charged up it was time to catch the next flight to Guayaquil, Ecuador. Neither of us have been To Ecuador before and are excited to explore. We sat next to a gentleman (Nelson) who is Ecuadorian but resides in Miami. He gave us all kind of information, rode in the cab with us to make sure we found our apt. and set us up with a driver. So very nice. I have a feeling this isn’t the last we have seen of Nelson.

 

After dropping our bags we were dropped off at the mall to get a sim chip for the phone and to scope out the local shopping. We called for our cabbie to come get us, and after 35 mins. wait we took another ride back to the apt. He said something very fast when I called him and I didn’t understand him and he hung up…who knows. We stopped for a little groceries just down the street then came back and had dinner. It was now after 7:00.

Dec. 30, 2019 This morning started out with an hours walk around the neighborhood to get our bearings. get out and see what is available to us. We found all sorts shops and restaurants, stores, etc. We bought a batido which is like a fruit smoothy and a pineapple empanade. Both were excellent. Peggy, you would have loved the empanade. So much better than the ones in Boquete. Around the streets, on cars, in doorways, etc. are these paper mache figures. Everything from Picachu and Minions, to Batman and disney caricatures. For sale of course. They burn them on New Year’s Eve. Can’t wait to see that! The cute gal is the artist who made this batch of effigy. She is Annalisha and it took her four months to make and paint.

Off to the downtown area and the Iguana Park and cathedral. Our next adventure was down to the Malacon 2000. This is a 2.5 km promenade built in 2000 is touted as one of the most successful revitalization projects in South America. Once a dilapidated river front is now a main attraction with many shops and restaurants. We spent three hours walking here and seeing the sights. We enjoyed some wonderful large shrimp cevieche.

Then we called our driver Jenny ( Nelson’s friend) to come pick us up. Thinking we were going to head back to the apt. WRONG! Nelson and Natalie were with Jenny and asked us if we had walked the stone road which he had told me about on the plane but had forgotten about. We said no and he asked if we wanted to. Sure why not, right? This turned into another three hours or so. We walked the stone road and the Cerro Santa Anna to see the beautiful colored houses and to walk the 444 steps up to the old light house. What a view.!!!

On the way down the hill, Nelson asked if we would like to try some typical Ecuadorian food. Why yes of course! So off to a nice sea side “cafe” that he frequents often for some great Sangria and bolone. This is a green plantain dish made with mashed plantains, filled with chicharones, and cheese. Very nice. Would have been most excellent with something like a 1,000 Island dressing. So, to recap, we left the apt about 11:00 and returned around around 8:00. I think we got our 10,000 steps in, twice.

Tues. Dec 31, 2019 New Year’s Eve– We walked this morning in the opposite direction of yesterday’s walk. We found a quaint little restaurant that had baked goods. I bought a tiramisu that was out of this world. It was so moist that when you plunged the fork into it coffee ran out the bottom. Yummy. As we were walking out a gentleman said in English happy new year. So of course we started to chat. Turns out he is a national here but spent 50 years in Jersey. He recently “retired” and has a couple of little stores in the adjacent mall. Very nice man. The side walks were very busy with everyone buying their last night party items. Grapes, burn dummies, fireworks, etc. On our way nearly back to apt. we encountered yet another tradition here. They are called the widows. Young men dress up as grieving widows for money and competition. The change they collect is used for beer or fireworks for later in the day. According to one of our party hosts, some used to go into quite the performance. The black veil, wailing, etc. “My boys” were pretty funny and took it less seriously. Time for a little rest before embarking on a trip to check out the bus station and see what the scoop is there for our trip on Mon to our next destination. Upon arrival I couldn’t believe how many people were milling about. It’s a holiday after all. Turns out there is a mall in the station as well. Grocery store, electronics store, etc. This trip caught us in the rain and down pour. Popping into door ways and stores along the way trying to stay dry. This effort was futile.

beautiful mosaic tile

three stories of Mall and Bus depot
rained so much water blowing back out of the street drains

Next time for a little rest. We no sooner returned back to apt when we received a mess from Nelson asking if we wanted to attend his families Ecuadorian New Year’s eve festivities. This was about 4:00 so we had plenty of time to rest and run to the store for our contribution. Nelson’s driver Jenny picked us up promptly at 9:30. Nelson lives in his parents former home up in the hills to the North. Beautiful home built 60 years ago. There was 18 of us for dinner. Mostly Nelson’s family and three of Natalie’s family. Some came from England and L.A.!

The “entertainment” was amazing. First we throw the “dummy” in the road and light him on fire. The burning symbolizes letting go of the bad things of the past year and warding off the bad spirits for the incoming year. The dummy is stuffed with random fire crackers. Next is your twelve grapes, good luck for each month. Then of course a champagne toast at midnight.The release of our night lanterns didn’t go so well as the neighbors, but of well.Now, time to eat dinner. Glass of sangria, Turkey, gravy, two kind of rice, salad, a wonder side dish they called stuffing, but not, corn bread cake, and of course Peach cake for dessert. Nelson played then piano and we chatted with many of the relatives. All so very nice to a couple of gringo “strangers”. Now its going on 4:00 am. and time to go back the apt. We were up til nearly 5:00. I can’t believe how fast the time went! By far the best New year’s eve I have ever spent.

Jan 1, 2020!!! Happy New year!!! Well, if today is any indication of what the new year looks like I think we had better slow down a bit. I think from all of the walking before the party and the party we were utterly pooped. We slept five hours until 10:00 a.m. The literally laid around and watched tv. all day!!! Never left the apt. Guess we are getting too old for all of this excitement in one day. Bill’s digestive system has taken a little bout of irritation, from who know’s what, but hopefully it will be back to normal in a day or so.

Jan. 2, 2020 Thurs– a long day today as Bill is still not feeling back to normal. That makes two days hold up in the apt. Although we did take two ten minute walks today. That’s more than yesterday. We were going to go for a typical crab dinner for my birthday but Bill not comfortable with leaving the bathroom that long. Not sure what caused his plight as we have eaten all of the same things. So, maybe tomorrow night. We ended up grabbing some chicken and local fries which Bill did not eat. Fries were all hand cut and had a sort of mustard/cheese sauce and ketchup on them. Pretty tasty.

Jan 3,2020 Fri– Bill still not feeling the greatest so I said it was time for some meds. We walked two blocks to the farmacia and got some cipro. He took two immediately. Hours later things were perking up, and food staying put. We had a nice meal of rotisserie chicken, rice, yellow potatoes, beans, and cole slaw. We did not eat the slaw.

Jan 4,2020 Sat– Well, the cipro seemed to have done the job. Bill feeling much better and not quite so weak. We took our first Uber to a different mall to walk indoors as it was 91 today. Too hot for me. We got a nice fruit bar that was very tasty. Had a little lunch and went back to the apt. Bill needing a little rest we watched a movie until it was time to get ready to walk to back and forth to church. First time we had walked at night here.

Jan. 5, 2020 Sun– off for a day trip. We took the Tren de la Dulzura Ecuador for a 2 1/2 hour trip across the midlands. This is where the local crops of sugar cane, bananas,rice, and cocoa are grown. this train runs thurs-sun and it is funny how many people line up to take pictures and wave as the train goes through their little town. The trash and garbage along the tracks was disgraceful. I couldn’t even bear to take a photo of it. The trash here in the city gets picked up every two days. But I guess not in these other towns. The train was very nice, very clean, air conditioned, with liquor and food bar. We had a car all to ourselves. We were able to go out the back of the train and hang out. I liked that a lot! Arriving in the town of Naranjito we were told the waterfall we had hoped to see was only accessible by buying a tour package that was offered on the train. Well, THAT wasn’t in the web info! They were offering $25,00p.p. side trip to a farm, lunch, info about the sugar cane and cocoa process. But we didn’t want to do that. The information on the web site was vague and sketchy and didn’t mention any additional trips. BLAH!

Any way we walked around and got the feel for the town. Hit a Sunday street sale where we found a guy selling something out of a pot. We took interest and he offered us a taste. Turns out it was boiled figs with sugar and vanilla. OH MY!!! So good. They were serving them on a bun with some sort of cheese. I would have just eaten them in a dish with whipped cream. We found the big church in town and got in just before communion. Big old church, lots of fans, no air. Time for a bite to eat now. Rotisserie chicken is the fare for the day. Again. I’m starting to think I am going to get chickened out before the six weeks are up. We met a man (Peter)on our return at was born in Guayaquil who now lives in Vancouver. Very nice.Gave us some info on Cuenca where we are going next.the return trip left at 2:00 and we got back at 4:50. A nice way some of the outlying area without having to drive.

Week Thirteen…final days Malaga re-visited

March 24th. Sunday- our last moving day. 12:00 was check out time and our next residence wouldn’t be ready til 3:00. Eric longed to have his grilled Sardinas one more time, so off to the beach we walked. And really with nothing else to do what better than to sit at the beach eating seafood and drinking? I got a clam shell that had a mussel, scallop, “crab” bites, and shrimp in it along with giant grilled prawns. Bill and Eric had the sardinas, Lori a salad. Our next land lord called at 2:15 and said our place was ready. So, we got a cab and loaded all of the luggage in and headed to town. The new place is in the historic district and had limited car access so we were let out a block and a half down the street. Perfect. The new place is an old building that has been re-habbed. Nice and long, new floors, modern furniture. Lots of space for eating and sitting separate from the rest of the flat. Bedrooms are on the ends. Great layout. After un-packing the two couples went our separate ways for eats. Bill and I chose to re-visit a place Dani had taken us to in Jan. Marchanas. Turns out the man that owns the place has carried the “float” for Semana Santa for decades. The place is filled with all sorts of memorabilia and posters and such. Including some old “helmets”. Really neat stuff. No late night lingering tonight. T.V. in bed.

March 25th Monday- off to re visit all of the shops that have been closed when we walked past them. A good share of the town is closed from 1 or 2 til 5:00. Some yes, some no. I had spied a couple of antique stores and a re sale shop that I wanted to get into. The re-sale shop I had bought a sweater in back in Jan when I was freezing. Three were a pair of flamenco dresses for $15.00 each that I would have loved to take home. However, they are so heavy and large I would have had to purchase another suitcase just to get them outta here. The gentleman at the antique store was a wealth of information and history. He had some of the most lovely scarves and wraps all silk all hand stitched and very expensive. Mostly from the 19th century. Some beautiful hand crafted furniture, and ceiling lamps just to name a few things.

After coffee we popped into another “vintage” store. Most of the dishes and glassware were from Germany and France with a few from the Orient. The owner was out for the day and lucky for us her husband was looking after the shop. Arnoldo was looking for someone to talk to being bored in his wife’s shop. Lucky for us! Arnoldo was/is a colonel in the army. He is on reserves for four years before being able to retire fully. He has served in many wars and has been to many countries including Bahrain, Iraq, Turkey, and Afghanistan. He was a field commander. He showed us pictures on his Ipad. We must have talked for over half an hour. He was a very nice and funny man. He said of all the people he has worked for his wife is the toughest.

LOL. Some left overs for lunch then changed into shorts and tank for some sun time in the park and at the port. A little rest time for all then all four of us went to Japanese for dinner. I was looking to get the shrimp and veggie tampura that Eric and Lori had last week. Yum. Lori all of a sudden didn’t feel well so she and Eric went back to the room. Bill and I strolled about a bit. Hitting some of the side streets we hadn’t been on. Everything is all lit up at night and pretty.

WEEK TWELVE…

March 17th Sun. What a wonderful day. We all headed down to a flea market north of town. Another bus goof up left us walking needless out of our way to catch the second bus. With 47 bus lines and many different terminal and changing plazas it is easy to get messed up. BUT, by george I think we have it now! YEA. Figures, our last week and a half. That is quite a learning curve. Any way, the flea market was much like the rest. Fruit and veggies, socks, belts, undies, etc. However, this market also had a “used items” area. The variety here was nuts. Everything from old coins to loads, and I mean loads of t.v. remote controllers. We bought some wonderful asparagus and more almonds. I sure am going to miss those almonds. I also bought a cute little pair of pants, and Bill finally found a hat he likes.

The afternoon for me was spent on the beach again. It may be the last great day for sunning so I took the opportunity when I got it. Finally getting some nice color. The beach was probably the busiest I have seen it. Well, it was 81 today after all. A little nibble for dinner before heading down tot he marina for an evening sunset cruise on a catamaran. $12.00 for an hour and a half with a free glass of champagne to boot. You can’t get that in the U.S. for the same price anywhere! $45.-60. maybe! A lovely evening with a stiff breeze. The city from the water view very nice. I love Malaga. Walking to the bus station in the dark we saw a lot of lights and commotion at one of the hotels, so we kind of took a peek. Red carpet and lights for the Movie Festival that is in town. We didn’t get close enough to see who was there, but a crowd had definitely gathered to watch. You NEVER know what you are going to see here.

March 18th, Mon-Bill is coming down with another cold or something. He wasn’t feeling well yesterday and chose to “take the day off” today, as we have a big day trip on Wed. he needs to rest up for. I threw a load of jackets in the wash. Eric, Lori, and I went to Malaga to tootle around. We no sooner started walking when we literally hit the red carpet. Of course we couldn’t resist a pic or two. A camera crew was there shooting live for t.v. Once again, you never know if Malaga what is just around the next corner. We ate lunch at a nice Japanese restaurant and had an amazing meal. Thank you Lori for picking that one. More walking and then Eric picked a nice place for a sit and tapas. Once again, more great food. Dinner….? Maybe not tonight. A quick stop off to the grocery store for fresh orange juice for the patient. After dinner Bill wanted to stretch his legs a little after resting all day, so he joined me in a little walk. Hoping he feels better for Wed as we have a big trip planned.

March 19th Tues- our morning started off with a walk to a Cudeca. This is a thrift store. Lori had been in it a few days ago and told me she found it. I had found another earlier last week. Very small shop, not much in there. If they saw our “resale” shops I think they would blow a gasket. No comparison. Anyway after lunch I hit the beach for a couple of hours as my days on the beach are numbered and few now. No crowds on a week day. A drink on the beach of course. While having our drink three guys came in. One was there to do a food challenge. Three burgers, two HUGE hot dogs, fries, a drink and milk shake in 20 minutes. There has only been about 10 winners in the last two years. The shortest time…3 minutes 37 seconds. The longest…19 minutes 59 seconds. The guy today called it quits. He didn’t finish and had to pay $25.00 EU. Like I’ve said before, you never know what you are going to see. Eric cooked a pork chuletta and potatoes for dinner.

March 20, Wed.- Day trip to Granada and the Alhambra. The bus was 20 minutes late picking us up in the downtown area. Possibly because the bus originated in Marbella up the coast about 40 miles. The bus trip was over the mountains and across some olive tree groves and farm land. We stopped about 45 minutes into the drive for a “rest break”. Arriving in Granada I noticed some trees were in bloom that I haven’t seen here in Malaga. Pretty purple flowers. A nice 15 minutes stroll up town brought us to the “cathedral” and the old city . We bopped around there for a while and I bought some saffron. Granada is suppose to be the place to get it. So I bought it there. We visited the city history museum and got a pic of the old square. An old fountain there had me searching for the fountain of youth, again. I didn’t see a plaque tho on how old the fountain is.

There was also a nice church in the area and what I think was a smaller church turned into a venue hall. A beautiful building that is now a five star hotel.
In a striking marriage between old and new, the Hospes Palacio de los Patos yokes a 19th-century palace to an uncompromising modern design scheme. Relying heavily on minimalist materials such as stone, glass and metal, the palace’s alabaster-white interiors are sleek spaces filled with light. The boutique hotel’s twin buildings are well positioned for exploring the ancient Moorish-Spanish city of Granada. Rates start at $350.00 EU a night

Hotel exterior

On to the Alhambra. We did a “tour package” which I would never do again. Over priced to begin with. You can rent a car for half of the price. of one person. We got there late to begin with and didn’t go directly to the site. Two hours were wasted in town. I get that the number of people visiting is limited. However, two and half hours doesn’t get it. Way too much to see and a lot of the cool stuff was left out. Such as the Alhambra bath system. Oh, well. Live and learn. We haven’t had any experience with tours til now.

The Alhambra (/ælˈhæmbrə/; Spanish: [aˈlambɾa]Arabic: الْحَمْرَاء‎ [ʔælħæmˈɾˠɑːʔ]Al-Ḥamrāʾ, lit. “The Red One”) is a palace and fortress complex located in GranadaAndalusiaSpain. It was originally constructed as a small fortress in AD 889 on the remains of Roman fortifications, and then largely ignored until its ruins were renovated and rebuilt in the mid-13th century by the Nasrid emir Mohammed ben Al-Ahmar of the Emirate of Granada, who built its current palace and walls. It was converted into a royal palace in 1333 by Yusuf I, Sultan of Granada.[1] After the conclusion of the Christian Reconquista in 1492, the site became the Royal Court of Ferdinand and Isabella (where Christopher Columbus received royal endorsement for his expedition), and the palaces were partially altered in the Renaissance style. In 1526 Charles I & V commissioned a new Renaissance palace better befitting the Holy Roman Emperor in the revolutionary Mannerist style influenced by humanist philosophy in direct juxtaposition with the Nasrid Andalusian architecture, but it was ultimately never completed due to Morisco rebellions in Granada.

Alhambra’s last flowering of Islamic palaces was built for the last Muslim emirs in Spain during the decline of the Nasrid dynasty, who were increasingly subject to the Christian Kings of Castile. After being allowed to fall into disrepair for centuries, the buildings occupied by squatters, Alhambra was rediscovered following the defeat of Napoleon, who had conducted retaliatory destruction of the site. The rediscoverers were first British intellectuals and then other north European Romantic travelers. It is now one of Spain’s major tourist attractions, exhibiting the country’s most significant and well-known Islamic architecture, together with 16th-century and later Christian building and garden interventions. The Alhambra is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and the inspiration for many songs and stories.[2]

Moorish poets described it as “a pearl set in emeralds”, an allusion to the colour of its buildings and the woods around them.[3] The palace complex was designed with the mountainous site in mind and many forms of technology were considered. The park (Alameda de la Alhambra), which is overgrown with wildflowers and grass in the spring, was planted by the Moors with roses, oranges, and myrtles; its most characteristic feature, however, is the dense wood of English elms brought by the Duke of Wellington in 1812. The park has a multitude of nightingales and is usually filled with the sound of running water from several fountains and cascades. These are supplied through a conduit 8 km (5.0 mi) long, which is connected with the Darro at the monastery of Jesus del Valle above Granada.[4]

Despite long neglect, willful vandalism, and some ill-judged restoration, the Alhambra endures as an atypical example of Muslim art in its final European stages, relatively uninfluenced by the direct Byzantine influences found in the Mezquita of Córdoba. The majority of the palace buildings are quadrangular in plan, with all the rooms opening on to a central court, and the whole reached its present size simply by the gradual addition of new quadrangles, designed on the same principle, though varying in dimensions, and connected with each other by smaller rooms and passages. Alhambra was extended by the different Muslim rulers who lived in the complex. However, each new section that was added followed the consistent theme of “paradise on earth”. Column arcades, fountains with running water, and reflecting pools were used to add to the aesthetic and functional complexity. In every case, the exterior was left plain and austere. Sun and wind were freely admitted. Blue, red, and a golden yellow, all somewhat faded through lapse of time and exposure, are the colors chiefly employed.[4]

The decoration consists for the upper part of the walls, as a rule, of Arabic inscriptions—mostly poems by Ibn Zamrak and others praising the palace—that are manipulated into geometrical patterns with vegetal background set onto an arabesque setting (“Ataurique”). Much of this ornament is carved stucco (plaster) rather than stone. Tile mosaics (“alicatado”), with complicated mathematical patterns (“tracería”, most precisely “lacería”), are largely used as panelling for the lower part. Similar designs are displayed on wooden ceilings (Alfarje).[4] Muqarnas are the main elements for vaulting with stucco, and some of the most accomplished dome examples of this kind are in the Court of the Lions halls. The palace complex is designed in the Nasrid style, the last blooming of Islamic Art in the Iberian Peninsula, that had a great influence on the Maghreb to the present day, and on contemporary Mudejar Art, which is characteristic of western elements reinterpreted into Islamic forms and widely popular during the Reconquista in Spain. For more information and pictures you can follow in this link.https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alhambra

For more pics and info follow this link…. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alhambra While the Alhambra is the greatest example of Moorish architecture in the world, it was not nearly are ornate as the Alcazar in Seville. There were no painted tiles, no pictures or remaining art or statues, etc. Most of the relief work was done with plaster molds. It is much bigger grounds however as an entire “city” lived here. I understand it is a world heritage sight but so is the one in Seville. If I had to tell travelers to choose one it would be the one in Seville. That was truly jaw dropping. Back on the bus at 4:30 to head to Malaga. 45 Mins or so into the drive time for the driver to get his 30 minute break. Here Bill and I enjoyed a little ocean ceviche. Yum. Back to the house about 7:30 and burgers for dinner.

March 21, Thurs. Happy first of spring. A nice morning walk along the beach towards the super market to buy some shrimp that I have been craving. A nice pastry from Salavador’s and a coffee on the side walk. Salvadors has been in business since 1905 and is truly a staple here. Anytime of day there is a line. http://panaderiasalvador.com/ I am going to miss those things immensely, tho I really don’t need the pastry they have been a nice treat. After some lunch for Bill it was reading time. Then drink time on the beach where we got some small fried octopus. Pretty tasty tho it could have used some sort of dipping sauce. I cooked up some pasta, tossed some mushrooms, onion,red pepper in a pan and hit the shrimp with lemon and butter. YUMMO! Another walk in the evening. Eric and Lori had gone out for the night to a flamenco performance.

March 22nd Fri- Bill and I headed down town to find our next residence and the closest car street to it. It is located in the historic district and not all streets allow cars. It had been Jan. when Dani was here when we last were there. Our memories weren’t too foggy and we found it on the first try. We then walked the route to the train station to see how long that would take for Thurs when we leave this wonderful city. Back down towards the big fresh market we stopped for a coffee and churros. I think I have finally gotten the churros “thing” licked. I’m not sure if it was because they weren’t steaming hot today or what, but I think I am over it. We sat at across from the Roman theater and listened to a man singing and playing guitar. What a wonderful setting this is. The orange blossoms scenting the air overhead is intoxicating. Time to catch a bus and head back for a late lunch and some reading. Another walk for after noon drinks. When returning Eric and Lori were up and back from their walk and we sat for a couple of hours talking. We all decided rotisserie chicken from down the street sounded great. However the place Bill and I spied earlier in the day was now closed. What? At dinner time? Who knows around here. Anyway a 15 minute walk up the street brought us to a local bar that had advertised the same. 1/2 a chicken, fries, and a drink for $5.00 not bad! And yummy to boot.

March 23, Saturday- Bill and walked around a couple of side streets that we hadn’t been down yet. Went into the municipal market here, looked for a zipper part and had a piece of cake and coffee. The wind was very stiff today and no one was on the beach. Also the temp has dropped so no fun . Sand blowing every where. Most of the restaurants have their wind shields up and everyone is hunkered down inside. I don’t blame them. What a contrast to last Sat. We also walked an upper road that comes out by the marina. Very nice view from up there. All of the wisteria is in bloom. Very pretty. Dinner was left over shrimp and pasta. Church at 7:30 was short and sweet. Sunday is our last moving day. We are moving into down town Malaga in the historic district. Looking for to that!

Week Eleven…Eric and Lori here

March 10, Sun- Church day. Church didn’t start until 11:00 so we had a nice quiet morning as Eric and Lori finally “hit the wall”. They didn’t get up until 11:00. We tried to get a load of laundry started to no avail. The landlord and his mom and dad came by to see if they could get it going. After puttzing with it for quite a while the mom said it was no good. So, we have a new washer coming on Tues. We had a nice walk after church down the boardwalk. A ton of people out and about everywhere. I never would have figured it to be that busy in a residential area. We had a nice dinner in and took an evening walk.

the boys are at it again

March 11, Mon- We where going to go up to the Botanical Gardens north of town. We took the bus but missed our stop. So we had a nice ride to the university area. Big place. Nice library. Heading back to town, we stopped for an after noon coffee and found out the gardens were closed on Mon. Which wasn’t stated on the website. I would have been super bumbed if we would have gotten all the way up there and they weren’t open. By the time we got back to the apt. everyone was ready for a little rest, so I got things ready for nachos for dinner. Lori and I skipped the evening walk.

March 12, Tues- Bus and train ride up to Las Boliches for the flea market. What a crowd. I can’t believe how many more people that were there than in Jan. Lori bought some cork purses and fruit and veggies. I bought my pottery ware that I had scoped out in Jan. and some strawberries. It is the season now for them and they are very cheap. $1.00 Eu for one kilo. Same for lemons, and mushrooms. We headed down to the beach for a bite to eat and walked around some. Headed back to the train about 3:00. It would be nearly 4:30 before we would get back to the apt. A nice salad for dinner and a short walk afterwards.

March 13, Wed- Bill and I went for a nice morning walk into new territory. We found a used clothes store I had found online and a “vintage” store with nothing old. LOL. We bought a new load of pastries for the house, had churros and coffee. Then Bill took a nap while I headed down to the beach for a couple of hours. Then after noon drink time. Eric and Lori took their own walk to the grocery store and to mail a post card. Eric made a nice chicken and mushroom dinner and an evening walk to get copies of Eric and Lori’s passports.

March 14th, Thurs- Day trip to see the Nerja Caves. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Caves_of_Nerja   We took our local bus to the Marina Port stop and transferred to a regional bus for the 50 km ride to the caves. Most of the trip was along the ocean side towns with a view. A lot of cliffs. The caves have scheduled visits as they only allow so many people with a guide in at a time. I would have loved to just been cut loose to explore all of the nook and crannies.When the young boys found these caves they must have felt like they found heaven. We were allowed to take pictures but without a flash only as not to degrade some of the green material growing there. The short time of 40 minutes that we were in the cave was not nearly enough time to enjoy it all. A short 10 minute ride downhill into the town brought us to lunch time. Eric and Lori had paella and meatballs while Bill and I feasted on tapas of potato salad with tuna and garlic chicken. We went to the Cave museum which is in town and not on site. They had some great artifacts there as well as some bones and teeth. Upon returning back to the apt. Bill and grabbed a nibble and then took a stroll on the boardwalk to watch the sunset.

 March 15th, Friday-Bill and I got up and walked into town. About 7 km. A nice stroll along beach all the way in. It took us an hour and a half. Walking this stretch was one of my goals after moving over to this side of Malaga.

Malaga and Port to left

We stopped for a coffee and juice along the way. We walked to Marina. There was a lovely two mast sailboat from Saint Vincent and the Grenadines.

I COULD STAND THIS FOR A WHILE

Walking about I spied a neat t-shirt for Bill. Something very different and out of the ordinary. We popped in to get a better look. Turns out that this shop is maned by Veterans and the money is used to help vets as well. Pretty neat. Anyway, the man there, Jesus,(go figure) is a graphic art designer and had spent years in the service. We talked with him for quite a while and found out that he had designed the t-shirt we first saw on the sidewalk for the 100 year anniversary. They had gotten permission to use the crucifix from the cathedral for the center and one soldier on each side of it. Along the bottom are all of the coat of arms. Bill spied a different shirt in the back behind the counter that was very unique as well. This one was not sold by the bulk. Only made up one at a time when asked for. Bill bought the one on display. Now it’s lunch time of course. We ate on the side walk of a mom and pop joint. Very good food. We had tapas of potato salad and chicken stuff red peppers with tomato sauce and fries. Super yummy.

OOOPS, FORGOT TO TAKE PIC BEFORE EATING

After lunch Bill wanted to find Cruzcampo, a beer maker here that has a nice brewery in town. I believe I spoke of it back in Jan. Anyway, Bill wanted to see if they sold t-shirts. No they do not. But I told them about all of MI. breweries and how the shirts would be a hit for those that like the “brew pubs”. Anyway, we made it back to the bus station. When back I loaded the washing machine up, swept and mopped the floors, cleaned the kitchen, hung out laundry. Had dinner and took a walk to the resale shop to buy a book. A nice day all around.

 

March 16, Sat- Bill and I took a walk up in a an area near us. Bill had been in some of it when searching for a particular grocery store earlier in the week. We sort of buck weaved our way along the middle of the hill through some residential area. Nice view of the ocean from up there.I like getting a different perspective. We saw a funeral procession in the street approach a church as we were checking out the service schedule. The family and friends of the deceased were walking behind the hearse. A nice old ritual. After lunch I headed down to the beach for a couple of hours while the crew took their siesta. Bill and I went to a different church for 7:00 mass.

WEEK TEN…last of Portugal

March 3, Sun. Another lovely day today.  10:00 church and  an English breakfast. The beach was so nice and a low  breeze had me thinking Beach Day!  After breakfast I  gathered  up my stuff and headed  down to the beach.   I  didn’t sleep much last night so of course a nap down there was in order as well as some reading.  Bill joined me after a couple of hours as he was ready for that afternoon beer. I have never seen drink so much beer in all of our years to- gether. We met a woman today from Toronto that is a con-struction manager and chatted with her over Bill’s beer.  I  cooked spaghetti for dinner and then three loops around  the  street for evening walk.

March 4th- Mon-The morning started off cool and rainy.  We hung around  the flat for a while then headed off for a short walk while  the laundry  was running.  A nice breakfast spot and bakery is just a ten minute walk away.  It was sprinkling so we  ducked in.  Nice selection of goods.  I grabbed a bite and  some coffee.  The place was packed. A tuna sandwich for  lunch and some reading time while waiting for the landlord to come and change out or empty gas tank on the heater.  Took an afternoon  walk and Bill’s beer. Left over  spaghetti for dinner and another walk. 

March 5th Tues- Another load of laundry in before the water went out. Our building and maybe the district? You think we do a lot of laundry, however I will remind you that the capacity on these machines is very small. We had Chinese out as the frig is whittled down to bare bones for breakfast bite on Thurs. We got the good news that despite a “medical emergency” Eric and Lori have been cleared to join us in Malaga on Thurs. night! So happy. So excited to have new faces to pal around with. So great full that the issue came up before Eric came to Spain and that he is getting things straightened out and is able to travel!!!

March 6th Wed.-we packed up our bags, took a last walk around the beach view walk, packed our bags up. Albuferia was nice but it’s time to move on.

good bye Albuferia

March 7th Thurs- On the road again! A 2:00 a.m. wake up call for a 3:00 airport shuttle pick up. Yuck! Shuttle was exactly on time and “rushed” us directly to the airport.We were there in 35 minutes. Of course no traffic at 3:00 either. At 3:45 .am nothing is open yet, so why do they want you there 2 hours before your flight? No one would know if you were there then or not. The short hop to Lisbon was good. We were suppose to have an hour layover but we JUST had time to visit the restroom when they started boarding the bus to transfer us to the plane. Perhaps the “layover time” meant wheels to wheels because that would have been closer to the case. Any who, all went well on that flight. Upon arriving in Malaga however was the snafu. Our luggage didn’t make the short layover. Ok, next flight was coming in about 8:00 and we would be back at the airport then to pick up Eric and Lori. So, no big deal. Our new land lord, Alejandro picked us up and greeted us with a huge smile and a hug. Alejandro’s story is- he is Argentinian. He lived in London for two years prior to coming to Spain. He is studying to be an engineer. 28 years old, and expecting his first child in six months. Very nice young man. The “apt” is more like a house it is that large. Seriously I could live in this place. I would say it’s about 1,500 sq. ft. 3 bedrooms, two baths, large sun room, laundry room, huge living room with formal dining area, couch and tv in the kitchen. Third floor with an elevator, very nice. We will be staying here for the next 19 days or so. Just enough time to get settled, do some shopping, and check out the beach before Eric and Lori’s flight was to come in. We got our fist drink on this beach and I found a dumpster again. Of course I couldn’t resist and, bingo! More tiles.

Alejandro lives just in the next building and picked us up to go to the airport at 6:50. The flight was only ten minutes late. We hung around to see if our luggage was going to be in, but we didn’t want to make Alejandro wait around for us. So, we came “home” knowing the bags would be delivered in the morning. We took a short walk on the beach after I made some dinner for Eric and Lori. We all were a little tired and turned in early.

March 8,2019 Fri. Everyone up fairly early considering the long day we all had yesterday. Bill headed out to find another grocery store Alejandro told us about. After breakfast we headed to the grocery store so Eric and Lori could stock up. Eric made a fabulous spinach salad for lunch. Then a nice walk along the beach up past a small marina to see if we could peer around the point. Nap time. Dinner was amazing. Eric wanted to start out his Spanish adventure with some grilled sardines. We also shared a HUGE red snapper. It was suppose to be for three but we literally brought half home. Lori had a nice fire grilled steak.

March 9th Sat.-We tried to start the washing machine. I don’t know what we were doing wrong but the three of us couldn’t figure it out. After much frustration and searching the internet we decided to leave it for later. Lori was excited to get to the Malaga Fresh Market so we hopped a bus down there. About 35 mins. We were in front of the marina when I went up to ask the driver if I should get off. He said yes, so I moved to the center of the bus to exit and yelled to the other three to get off. The driver wouldn’t open their door. People on the bus were trying to help get the door open to no avail. So i watched as the bus took off with Bill, Lori, and Eric inside. They got off at the next stop and met me at the market. Lori and Eric had fun looking at all of the goodies. It really is quite the sight. We had fun eating our way around the stalls. Then Lori and I got our Churros and chocolate. Thank you Dani for showing me the place when you were here. Lori was in heaven. Next up lunch. Eric got a curry bratt and Lori a nice salad, while Bill and I split a burger. We walked around trying to find the resale shop I had bought my sweater in back in Jan. only to find it wasn’t open. A little sit at the Roman Theater to listen to a flute and guitar playing. The flute was very good. A nice breeze blowing almost made it surreal. Time to head back to the flat. I cooked mixed veggies and chicken fajitas for dinner. A walk to the grocery store for a couple of things to make fish tacos on sun with our left over snapper. Quiet time.

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Week Nine…Portugal part 2

Feb.24th Sun- Church was a little long as there was two  baptisms. Started at 10:00 and got over at 11:30.  But by then the sun was nice and warm just in time for a nice English  breakfast in the sun.  Back home for a little reading and  siesta. Then a nice walk down the beach and a beer for Bill.  I made fajitas as they were for dinner.  A little walk after  dinner in a warm evening. It was 74 today.

Feb. 25th- Mon.What a beautiful morning sunrise.   Well  the washing machine bandit struck  again.  Couldn’t  get  it to start, couldn’t get it to stop.  What  in the world.   You  would think two intelligent people  could figure something like this out.  Push buttons in and push  start. Nope, don’t  push any buttons in and push start? Got it after much frustration. By the time the load was ready to  hang out  it  was  11:00!  Talk about wasting half a day away!  Geez.  Got that  done. Phew! A  walk down to the Marina for coffee and apple pie, regular routine  after that.

Feb. 26th Tues.  Road trip day to Silves.  This little town is  about 40 minutes by bus past a lot of orange groves.  We  toured an old castle, did the farmer’s market.  We stopped  for lunch at a place that had chicken over a charcoal BBQ.  Well, talk about a meal! Mixed salad, a half a chicken, a  plate of fries, cokes, oranges with date cake for dessert. YUM. I bought another table cloth as I like it better than the one I had bought previously and it is larger.   I made  a new friend while sitting at the park for a spell. His name  was Flokey.  We were in a tile place and there was a man  painting while we were there.  I took his picture from the  side rear. Then upon leaving I saw a sign that said no  photos,photos $10.00.  Ooops!

Feb. 27th Wed. Second go with  the washer, success. Morning  walk for coffee and O.J.  Burgers for lunch. Then I went  to lay  at the beach and read for a while, alone. Nice  personal time.  I think we are both  feeling a little  cramped  now. No vehicle, no room to get away from each other. You get the drift.  Well, only one  more  week here (actually  moving  to different  residence  thurs)then back to Malaga  where there is more to do, and  Eric and Lori will be  joining  us for the last three weeks. I  believe plans are  to  rent a car for a couple of days and do a little traveling to  Cordoba and Granada.  Looking forward to that.

Feb. 28th Thurs Moving day.  Next to the last one.  We moved just to the other side of town. The new place is amazing! The best place so far. There is a large bedroom that looks out over to the ocean, a bath tub, two day beds in living room for lounging or watching t.v. a table that seats four, and a gas stove and oven!!! Hog heaven. The landlord is very nice and helpful. We got settled in and headed to a new grocery store. I wish we had had this place since we got to Albuferia. The beach is just ten minutes walk down two blocks to the escalator.  We have had two days of really  high wind and the big waves dropped a bunch of  shells on  the  beach so we went shell picking. The vibe on this side  of town is very different from the other side.  More people hanging around and out on the side walks and streets.  It’s  going to be good over here.

Feb. 29th Fri.-  Not a good start in the new place.  We woke  up to no internet and Bill’s phone stopped working.   Funny,  it’s the  first of the month.  Bill was very much upset over it  all and was in a bad mood until we got at least the internet  back up and running which required the landlord (Nelson) to come by and call the company.  Then Bill used   Nelson’s phone to try to call his carrier in Spain.  No use.  The guy on the other end of the phone was no help.  So, we will have to wait til next week when we are back in Spain to get it all sorted out.  This means Bill is left with no google  maps and is left to rely on my skills of navigating.  This  makes him very uncomfortable. Why?  I don’t know.  So the say was rather strained to say the least.

March 1, 2019 Sat.  Bill decided at 8:00 a.m. that we were  going to take a road trip today to Lagos.  A beautiful little  harbor town with some rich history.  The bus ride was just over an hour and a half.  Not anything different to see along the way that we haven’t already seen.  

Lagos is a town in southern Portugal’s Algarve region. It’s known for its walled old town, cliffs and Atlantic beaches. Steep wooden steps lead to the sandy cove of Praia do Camilo. The nearby cliffs of Ponta de Piedade offer sweeping headland views and a lighthouse. Igreja de Santo António, an ornate 18th-century church, sits across from the Castelo dos Governadores, a castle with a baroque facade and watchtowers. Area: 213 km²Population: 31,049 (2011)

We drug the malacon, did the farmer’s market, artisans  market, slave market, marina, two churches, the marina, and a fort.  And I bought one of the largest churros I  have  ever seen.  With the thickest chocolate ever.  Good thing I had all day to walk it off!

Mercado de Escravos slave market

This unassuming building in Praca do Infante Dom Henrique has a tragic history.  This building, (Mercado de Escravos) is widely believed to have been the first slave market in Europe.

In 1444 Prince Henry the Navigator set up a trading post in Arguin Bay, an island off the coast of Mauritania in West Africa.  From here, that same year, slaves were shipped over to be sold in Lagos.  The original building that stood here was built in that same year.  Contemporary accounts tell of the abject misery and trauma witnessed when the first slaves were sold on the site.  Families were torn apart and the conditions in which the slaves were kept were appalling.

From 1444 onwards the West African slave trade continued and within 10 years it is believed that around 800 slaves were transported along this route annually.

The building we see here today was substantially re-built in 1691and was used as a customs house.  Today a small museum can be found here.  The exhibition on the ground floor has some original objects associated with the slave trade and some replicas. More installations are found in an upper room which is accessed by leaving the building and walking a short way down a side road.  There are displays of artwork and maps.  Information is given via a tablet which is handed out at the museum entrance.

Quite a lot is known about the lives of the slaves who were sold here.  Some of the men were sent to work as labourers, galley slaves and fishermen.  Women were used as street sellers or sometimes sent into domestic service.  It has been estimated that by the 16th century, as many as 10% of the Algarve population were slaves.

Once Prince Henry, whose statue can be seen in the square, died, the focus of the Portuguese slave trade gradually moved from Lagos to Lisbon.

The one church we visited was:

The church of Santo António in Lagos is one of the finest in the whole Algarve. Dating back to 1707, and then re-built after the Great Earthquake of 1755, it stands as a fine example of the Baroque style of architecture. However, what really sets the church apart is that it has one of the most breathtaking interiors of any of Portugal’s many beautiful churches. Such is the quality of this lavish interior that the church is classified as a National Monument.

The church is dedicated to Saint Anthony, who was born in Lisbon and has a special place in the affections of the Portuguese people. A follower of St Francis of Assisi, he was known for his humility, his powerful sermons and his devotion to the sick and poor. Since very soon after his death in Padua in 1231, Portuguese Catholics have asked for his intercession in helping to find lost things, helping newly married couples and helping those looking for a spouse to find one.

Within the church there are six paintings depicting scenes from the life of St Anthony with explanatory signs in English as well as Portuguese. The church has a single aisle, a vaulted ceiling and two bell towers of differing heights which stand out as a city landmark.  The lower walls are decorated with traditional blue and white azulejo tiles.  Above the tilework, the church interior is almost entirely covered in intricately carved gold-plated woodwork, thought to be the work of Custodio Mesquita.  Everywhere you look there seems to be shimmering gold.  One cannot help wondering what Saint Anthony himself would have made of all the worldly splendour on display.

The altar has a statue of St Anthony holding The Child Jesus.  It is believed that this statue may have accompanied the local regiment to the battlegrounds of the Peninsular War in the early 19th century. Look out also for a statue of St Eloi (Eligius), patron saint of horses, vets and also (you guessed it!) goldsmiths.

Though pictures were forbidden the door monitor stepped  outside and I was able to click a couple. You may also go to the website listed here to see more.https://www.travel-in-portugal.com/attractions/igreja-de-santo-antonio-lagos.htm

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Lagos Fortress

The small fort of Ponta da Bandeira, also known as the Fort of Our Lady of Penha de Franca(or just Lagos fortress) stands on Lagos’s waterfront, where the Bensafrim River enters the sea and overlooking Praia da Batata beach.  Lagos had been the administrative capital of The Algarve from 1577 and this fortress, built around 1690, would have been part of the important defensive structures guarding the strategically important harbour from raids by Corsairs, pirates and the Spanish.

The fort, used until the 20th century by the military, was restored in the 1960’s and today the interior is open to the public for a small entrance fee. 

A drawbridge over a moat leads to the entrance of this squat little fort with its sturdy ramparts.  Inside there is a small chapel dedicated to St Barbara, patron saint of armourers, artillerymen and miners, the walls of which are lined with traditional azulejo tiles.  There is also a small museum and exhibition area which usually displays works by local artists and photographers. 

From the fort terrace there are panoramic views of the town and seafront.

The fortress:

Early History[edit]

Due to its strategic location, this stretch of coastline has been successively occupied since prehistoric times. In antiquity, the region was visited by Greek navigators, Phoenicians and Carthaginians. When the Romans arrived in the Iberian Peninsula, the primitive village had the Latinized name of Lacóbriga (also written Laccobriga). The new settlement received a quadrangular wall for its defence. The town of Lagos was occupied by Visigoths and later on, in the eight century, by Muslim Moors from North Africa, who renamed the town as ‘Zawiya’.

Abd-ar-Rahman III, Caliph of Cordoba, conquered the town in 929 and provided it with towers. The size of these works reflected the economic and strategic importance the town enjoyed, which had a privileged access to Muslim Silves.

Middle Ages[edit]

During the Christian reconquest of the Iberian peninsula, the region was conquered by King Sancho I (1185-1211) in 1189. Almohad Caliph Abu Yusuf Yaqub al-Mansurreconquered the place in 1191, only to be retaken in 1241 by Paio Peres Correia.

From this time there is little reliable information regarding the town’s defences under Muslim rule. King Afonso III (1248-1279) began works on the city’s walls, which were continued by King Denis (1279-1325) and his successor Afonso IV (1325-1357).

From 1361 onwards, the town of Lagos was separated from the jurisdiction of Silves, reaching administrative independence.

In the context of the Portuguese discoveries, Lagos played an important role. Nearby Sagres was one of the support bases for the conquest of North Africa and the operations of Henry the Navigator (1394-1460), in the first phases of the Age of Discoveries. Due to its harbour, as well as facilities where Caravels and other vessels were built, Lagos played a crucial role in the rise of the Portuguese Empire.

From Lagos left:

  • 1415 – Portuguese expeditions to conquer Ceuta in North of Africa;
  • 1419 – Vessels for the discovery of Madeira;
  • 1427 – Vessels for the discovery of the Azores;
  • 1434 – Gil Eanes vessel that crossed Cape Bojador on the West African coast;
  • 1458 and 1472 – The expeditions of King Afonso V (1438-1481) to conquer Ksar es-Seghir, Asilah and Tangier in the North of Africa. Despite Lagos’s strategic importance, in 1475 the Court registered complaints regarding the poor conditions of the Algarve’s fortifications, including the one in Lagos, after which reconstruction works began throughout the region.

Later Middle Ages[edit]

With the reign of King John II (1481-1495), the Company of Guinea was moved from Lagos to new premises in Lisbon (1481-1482). King John II and his successor also carried out conservation work on the defenses of Lagos, who endowed it with an aqueduct for the water supply, built somewhere between 1490 and 1521. King King Manuel I (1495-1521) granted a second Foral Charter in 1504, reformed a decade later, giving start to the construction of the Governors’s Palace.

Under the expansionist project of King Sebastian (1568-1578), Lagos became a city in 1573, becoming the capital of the Kingdom of the Algarve and the residence of the Captains General and Governors. His successor, Cardinal Henry (1578-1580), confirmed the title in 1579.

During the Iberian Union, the strength of Lagos’s defences increased. The city managed to fiercely oppose the landing of Francis Drake‘s forces in 1587, forcing Drake to seek a more vulnerable point in that stretch of coast (eventually attacking Sagres). The damage applied by the English artillery to Lagos, as well as the fear of new attacks on the coast, led to the reconstruction and modernization of its defenses in the following years.

  • 1598 – completed work on the second wall
  • 1621 – modernization and strengthening of the most fortified medieval section

Post Middle Ages[edit]

View of the walls that surround the historical centre

At the time of the restoration of Portuguese independence, conservation works were undertaken on the walls (1642), when the proposal to build a large, pentagonal plant with five bastions at the corners, in the south of the city (1643) was approved.

Later, the city and its defences would be severely affected by the tsunami that devastated the Algarve coast as a result of the earthquake of 1755. The resulting destruction was such that the civilian and military governments were transferred to Tavira, less affected by the natural disaster. At the end of the century, the city center was transferred from the old Praça de Armas (current Praça Infante D. Henrique) to the Cano Square (now Gil Eanes Square).

In the 19th century, the city experienced a surge of economic growth, especially in the fish industry.[1]

The walls and ramparts are classified as national monuments by a decree published on June 20, 1924.[2]

From the second half of the 1950s, the government, through the Directorate General for National Buildings and Monuments, in view of the celebrations of Centenarians, conducted a wide intervention in the built-up heritage of Lagos, rebuilding addorsed buildings to ancient walls and bulwarks, rebuilding the Palace of the Governors, sections of walls and constructed the Discovery Avenue (Avenida dos Descobrimentos), a landfilled increased protection area between the city and the sea.[3]

Recently (2001), the Baluarte of Porta Vila, was reclassified as an astronomical observatory.[4]

Characteristics[edit]

All of the city’s defences have an incomplete plant in an irregular pentagon shape.

The medieval structure surrounded the town that developed around the Church of Santa Maria do Castelo.

The new fence, adapted to firearm artillery, is made up of three flank bastions (from Santa Maria, Alcaria and São Francisco) and four towers (the Praça de Armas, the Conception, Porta Room and Santo Amaro).

Next up was a little libation on the deck over looking the  marina. We chatted with a man from Montreal that has lived there for the last 15 years.  He’s a skipper of some sort.   Then some more scouting around town and dinner.  Pizza  was up this time. A nice little ethnic “pie” was good for the  two of us.  We caught the 6:00 bus back to Albuferia.  When arriving at the depot here in town we were unaware that the city busses do not run at night.  New to us!!!! Good thing it was only a 20 minutes walk down hill to the apt.  A LOVELY DAY!

Week Eight…Portugal

Feb 16th. Sat.  Got the blog posted.  Frank and Wendy should be well on their way home.  Bill and I took a nice  relaxing walk after spending some time in the morning talking with  our “neighbors” in the adjoining room.  We had a nice  conversation.  Both gals are just 50 and one is from Scotland the other in England. Just a nice slow paced day.   We went to church at the Cathderal, a different chapel than last week, and saw a bride out on a back street.

Feb. 17th- Sunday- should have been a sleep in day but our landlord  decided he was going to install a shelf  and some hooks at 8:00 a.m. Janie and I were already  up  whispering but two others were still in the sack.   Juan  really isn’t all that considerate with sharing his space.  It’s more like you are there in his space instead of paying  to stay here. Slams doors, makes noise in  the morning,  etc.  It will be good to get back to not  sharing spaces. We  started  out for a nice walk and  ended up taking a nice hour long boat trip up and down the river for 45.00 EU. Then walking the river we heard music decided to see what all the fuss was about and ended up dead smack in the  middle of  a marathon. We followed a couple  of girls  that  looked like they knew where they were going and kind of got  in trouble.  We ended up in a restricted area.  Big  surprise right?   After getting out of the mess  at the  finish line of the  marathon, we crossed a bridge to  the  other side of the river where it wasn’t so crowded.  We found a nice spot to sit and watch people and have some fish and chips at a local Irish Pub. Yummy.  A  nice walk around  town before a little nap.  Later we  ventured out for one  last look at the city at night.   Seville is a beautiful  city  day and night.  I would  recommend it to everyone.  

Feb. 18th Monday- Rise and shine it’s moving time.  We are  off to Albufeira,  Portugal.  Seville is definitely a lot of  hustle and  bustle. It’s going to take a couple of days to get used to a slower pace and smaller town. The bus ride was less than three hours. Not a whole lot to see along the way. Mostly olive and orange groves. Getting all settled in  we  took in   a little sandwich then off to find the local  grocery  store to  get set up for the next 10 days.  Oh, how good  it  will be to  cook for our selves. YEA! I cooked a chicken  breast with  a  baked potato, and stir fried veggies. That  sure tasted  good  for a change.

Feb. 19th Tues- Off to see the town, or at least old town.  A  lot of cool winding narrow streets all leading down to the  beach. There is also an elevator that will take you up and  down to the beach, as it is several stories below the street.  Not a big crowd here, but then again it is a week day.   Perhaps is will be different on the week end.  From the lookout spots we can see the fishing marina but not the regular marina. We will seek that out another day. The beach is super clean. I can imagine the hoards of people here in the summer. I’m glad they aren’t here now. A little drink on a beach deck, and some souvenir shops   shopping. Just looking for prices right now. We had purchased some      little sausages from the grocery store.  Boy were they good!  Tasty and soft, no fillers. We will get them again.  Stir fried some veggies and there was our meal.  Loving the veggies.     the super moon was once again beautiful over the ocean.  

Feb. 20th. Wed- off in a different direction to see what is  around the big hill.  It’s a whole different part of town.  The big marina is there and a lot of tourist shops and condos.  The tour boats dock here as well.  We caught a bus up  towards  Aldi and Lidl for shopping, and the  fresh  fish and veggie  market. We ran into some  gals from  Ottawa Canada, they heard our English,  and  they got  yapping with us.  Fun bunch  of gals.  Walked back  to flat about a half hour or so,  then  time for lunch.  I cooked up the shrimp we bought for dinner.  Yummy. Didn’t care for having to peel all of those suckers tho. 

Feb. 21 Thurs.  When we had taken the bus to Aldi we saw a  lot of people get off at a previous stop so we heard about a huge store at that stop and decided to see what all of talk  was about. At fist we were going to ride the bus up and  walk back down hill, but then decided we would  walk  up and if we had too much to carry ride the bus back. Well we ended up walking both ways.  But the store was unbelievable.  I have never seen soooo much cheese and  wine in one spot. Even Sam’s and Costco can’t compare.  Stuff from all over the world.  And yes we did buy a couple of things.  A dollar plastic shower caddy and a dollar dish  washing cloth.  What can I say?  Our current flat needed  both. I will leave the caddy but take the wash cloth to the  next place.  I hate a sponge for dishes.  Gross.  We stopped  at a British place for fish and chips on the way back. Took  an evening walk.

Feb. 22 Friday- Today started out with a morning walk to  find the store where I had spied a nice apron  for  myself .  Once again Bill thought it was one way and I another.  Anyway we did find it and got a few extra walking steps in  as well.  Lunch was in and a little reading time and nap.   Evening walk to a different street that we haven’t been on  before where I saw a hotel that has a sauna and jacuzzi.  I  sent them an email to see if they allow outsiders in.  I could really use a good steam about now. We have had really high winds for the last two days creating some great wave action.  We climbed around the point to check it out.  Pretty cool.

Feb. 23 Sat- ROAD TRIP!  Sat is the big day for market in a little town about 30 mins bus ride away, so we went.  We caught the 7:15 a.m. bus to the station for a transfer to the next town. The  market was very nice, but small.  A lot of vendors on the  outside.  Just like it was spring time.  A lot of beautiful strawberries which were $1.00 a basket. Pretty tasty to me.   Raspberries, were a dollar also.  They didn’t last long in our hands. We toured an old castle that had loads of ruins in a museum.  Had Chinese for lunch yum! Walked some and did a little shopping.  I bought a cute little hat at a resale shop  for $,50.  Deal of the day. We saw old ladies breading grass for items to be made, and a lady hand painting pottery.   The bus was late picking up at the station and we missed  our connecting bus, so we didn’t get  home til 5:00.  No big  deal.  We had a nice face time conver-sation  with Dani.  And watched a little telly. Beautiful  weather today.  70 degrees .  Looking to more of the same for Sun.

F

T

Week Seven…Seville

Feb 10th, 2019 Sunday- This morning’s church service  was very ritualistic. A lot of pomp and circumstance in a good way, because we attended church at the Cathedral. How moving to just sit and ponder the history and age of the surroundings. Who carved this and how old is that? There were seven men up front in the alter area serving and assisting  in the service. 16 men served as the choir.   I can’t wait to go back for our tour with the lights on all  of the works.     http://www.catedraldesevilla.es/ The organ brought a smile to my face.  I would truly love to hear that baby cranked up.  I had locked the  keys in  the room and we couldn’t get back in until 2:30, which  suited us just fine as we were heading to the Plaza  Espana anyways and the landlord said he’d be back about 2:30.

On the occasion of the Ibero-American Exhibition of 1929 , the magnificent Plaza de España , a symbol of the so-called regionalist architecture whose greatest exponent is the architect Aníbal González, was built in the city of Seville , among other buildings . It stands out for the successful combination of the brick seen from its structure with the tiles and varied ornaments of polychrome ceramics.

The main attractions of the square are its semicircular lake, the twin towers, the banks on which appear, through tiles, 49 provinces, Spanish provinces and its beautiful coffered ceiling .


http://www.andalucia.org/es/turismo-cultural/visitas/sevilla/otras-visitas/plaza-de-espana-2/ This beautiful venue was created in 1929 the same year as  the Ibero-American Exhibition of 1929 . This space is  amazing and huge!!! 100 acres. On the edge of Parque  Maria Luisa . Nice pics below.  There were all kinds of  groups  hanging out and singing and playing guitar, flamenco dancers, etc. You can rent four to six people  “bikes” etc. A busy place on a week end day.  I would like to go back and see it at night.  Perhaps later in the week.

 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parque_de_Mar%C3%ADa_Luisa_(park)

Of course by now it was mid afternoon and drink time.  We took the river walk and stopped at a Caribbean  influenced  place playing reggae music for a cold one.  A nice walk back towards town Frank was ready to sink his teeth into some  real meat, so it was a nice hand made burger joint for a late lunch.  A nice little walk after that and time to call it an  early out. We keep seeing this very strange looking dog every now and then.  It kind of looks like a pooley but not. Some are cut, some not. SO, there was one on the way home and I stopped to ask the lady what it was. A turkish water dog. We also got to see the cathedral at night.  A beautiful site.

Feb 11, Mon.  Our trip to the Cathedral for a “full” tour. What we had seen from being in church on Sun. just scratched the ice burgh. It took us nearly three hours  to see  it all. And then we didn’t take the extra tour to see the stained glass and go to special places.  That would have taken  even longer. The choir “box” is pretty much the same as in  the Malaga Cathedral.  There are 80 alcoves to discover.   Now you know I was in explorer mode.  Every turn there was something else to see.  My favorite rooms were the jewel rooms.  Here are priceless items adorned with precious  stones and diamonds. Whoever said “the church” is broke  has never laid eyes on these babies.

The pictures I took cannot compare to the few that are  linked below. But, here are my favorite four.  To say the  pieces contained  in this ONE  building are priceless  is an  understatement.http://www.catedraldesevilla.es/

After the cathedral it was drink time.  With our ticket to the cathedral we also gained entrance to San Salvador Church.  This church needs a lot of restoration but is just as beautiful I think.  Its hard to imagine how many people and how  many hours it took to carve all of these different altars.   Below is a link that has many lovely pictures of the church.http://www.catedraldesevilla.es/iglesia-de-el-salvador/ An early split up for the evening and time to put our feet up.

Feb. 12th Tues.- Both couples went on their own today.  Bill and I found the bus station and bought our tickets to  Portugal, went back to the market across the river in Triana.  We walked the river, where I got to pet a police horse, An Andalusian of course, did some resale shopping, I bought a  summer dress,  Plaza de Armas,( the old train station) had  home lunch took  a  nap, did some grocery shopping, then  went out  later in the day for an  evening stroll and  some  ceviche. A good day, again.

Feb. 13th Wed.  Wow does not begin to describe what we saw today!  We toured the Real Alcazar.  this web site has some  wonderful pictures and history for you to see.  We took over 200 pictures today, between the Alcazar and the Metropol  which is a site underground dug up.   Ancient ruins =http://www.alcazarsevilla.org/ Metropol=https://setasdesevilla.com/ https://setasdesevilla.com/antiquarium-setas-sevilla/ The tile and craftsmanship, architecture, and beauty cannot be captured on my camera.  It is also hard to pick just a few that I shot to share with you.  SO, I highly suggest you check out the above websites. There were huge paintings, clay  pots, tapestry, gardens, fountains, etc.  This is still a wonderful place and I can’t imagine what it would have been like to  live here back in the day. Nor how many people it took to build, and how long.  And to play hide and seek here  would be a childs’ dream.  The Metropol is a huge wooden  structure built in the middle of a Plaza.  The ancient ruins  underneath. Wondering around you never know what you  will find.  We stumbled across the cities’ oldest bar.  Built in 1670 this place still has the old granite shelves and bottle of booze over 100 years old on the shelves http://www.elrinconcillo.es/en/home/

Feb 14th Thurs. Valentine’s Day- first thing this morning we sought out the Feria street flea market.  This is a once a  week event.  it took us nearly an hour to walk the first half.  you wouldn’t believe the stuff that was for sale.  Everything from ancient tile, bronze church relics, barbies, old pottery, ivory carvings, pictures, money, old posters, dishes, shoes, you name it.  We had fun browsing around.  And yes, I did  buy something.  Old crystals from a chandelier. Each strand has five crystals on it.  10/ $5.00 eu. I thought it to be a  bargain. We continues walking and found a resale shop with loads of clothes.  I found a nice nautical dress for $7.00.   Well the dresses were actually 2/7.00  but I didn’t find  another I liked.  Next up was some Mexican nachos for  Valentine’s day.  Every once in a while I start to crave some of the stuff we used to make at home, so Bill took me out.   Nice authentic food.  It tasted great.  Ready to get into our “own place” so I can cook again. A big fat chicken  breast sounds sooo good right now! After lunch was a nice stroll along the river. By then it was after 4:00 and we caught up with Frank and Wendy to hear about their adventures to the Roman ruins.  We had a drink and an evening walk.  Below are pics from the  street market.

Feb 15th Fri-  Half of the day was spent trying to find Frank and Wendy’s  apartment, back tracking to find where I had laid my backpack on a counter in a nice little store when I had stopped to ask for directions,taking laundry to self serve  and having lunch. Then back tracking yet again to see  where  I  had dropped my glasses.  Not a good day for Kathy.   Back pack was found, but not the glasses.  Good thing I  brought and extra pair for back up even if they are only  dollar store bought. The late afternoon was spent getting   the candy, and nuts Wendy wanted to  take  back  home and a river walk with churros, where we encountered our first stuffed churros. About the size of three cupcakes. We didn’t buy one but they sure looked yummy  Then back up  to  Macerana  to the church  gift  shop.  Yes, we had a lot of  walking today.  Wendy’s fit bit  said over 10 miles. No  wonder my  ankle was starting to  bother me. Said good  bye to Frank  and Wendy as they are  heading back home  on Sat.

Week Six…Savickas’ here!

Warning….I have exceeded my limit on picture data on Word Press and had to sign up for more. So consequently I will be posting less pictures. However, where possible I will post a link for you to look at more.

 Feb2…Sat- I was happy to see that the ground hog is being nice this year to all of my northern friends.  Especially in light of all the recent snow. See guys, there is a GOD.  Today we had  company arrive, but before that we walked to time the  bus/train station as we would be using that later. I found yet  another church to pop into.  Picasso statues are every where  and pop up in the strangest of places.  Below is an great and  HUGE  example.

  We caught some lunch at home before needing to  head out  to meet our friends from Rockford joining us for a  couple  of weeks.  Frank and Wendy Savickas. On our way to the flat we encountered a protest in the streets. Something about someones’ pensions. The was also a group of Venezuelans in the courtyard.

  We left our flat before receiving Wendy’s  message that they had missed their train and would be  another  hour and a half.   So, not wanting to walk back and forth again, we popped a  squat in the plaza for a bit, then headed to find a “famous”  tabanco nearby.  These establishments are very small and pour your wine or sherry right out of the cask.  Today a group of  young men were in there with a guitar and singing.  How fun  to be a part of that!  I tried cream sherry in one, didn’t really  love it, and then had a moscatel  at San Pablo.  I knew I would like the moscatel as I  had had some in Malaga.

Just about 4:00 Frank and Wendy came walking down the  street with a family in tow.  Turns out that is wan’t enough  for the family to give Savickas’ directions the family  walked  them to the door.   How Nice! Getting F&W settled  we took  them for a drink and some tapas.  We took them grocery shopping and  Caught  up a bit  and then it  was  time to part  til Sun. I’m looking forward  to spending  two weeks with  them.

Feb 3, 2019 Sunday-I had purchased a persimmon the other day and I thought it was ripe enough to try. It could have used a couple more days to ripen.  The taste kind of  reminded  me of a  mango.

Started off a little later as we wanted to give F&W a chance to  catch up and rest before hitting it too hard, so 12:30 church was our first activity of the day.  Next we headed right over to the  La Pasaje for free flamenco music and dancing.  This is also a  Tabanco. One of the oldest in town.  VERY small and it got  VERY packed. So packed in fact that we had to watch the  performance on the overhead mirror.

Next it was off to the Cathedral.   The  size is  grand but  the objects inside were not  nearly as  impressive as the  church we had been in on Thurs. night.

The Jerez Cathedral is a beautiful building from the 17th century which combines Gothic, Baroque and Neoclassical styles and stands above the earlier Great Mosque of Jerez and the old Church of El Salvador.

The chapels of La Inmaculada, El Sagrario and Las Ánimas stand out inside, the latter dedicated to the famous Cristo de la Viga, from the 14th century.

In the Cathedral Museum, amongst other paintings of interest, we find “La Virgen Niña” by Zurbarán and works by Juan Rodríguez “El Tahonero”.

The bell tower, which is outside, was possibly built over the minaret of the old mosque of Jerez de la Frontera.

After climbing the bell tower it was time for a cold one.  We had spotted just the place from atop of the tower.  Some nice fries  tied us all over til dinner.

Feb 4th, Monday- what a WONDERFUL day.  First off was theFundacion Real Escuela Andaluza Arte Ecuestre. This the  the “college” for learning all things Andulusian in horses.   Riding, tack, training, etc. The facility is beyond words.   The  teacher to student ratio is 1/1  That’s right! One student  to one teacher.  There are extra classes that can  be taken to learn about saddle making, farrier, etc.   Students are there  for four years and pay….are you ready  for this  one?… $1,500.00 a year!!! You read  it right!  I  guess the  government is so interested in keeping  this  wonderful  tradition alive  that is subsidized.   Also the price of tickets  which was dirt cheap and private events  also help defray  costs. There are 40 students, six new  each year now.  Roughly 100 staff including grounds keepers and office people. There is also a museum for carriages, and horse equipment, and clothing etc. You have never been in a facility like this one. There are only four of these schools  in the world. One in Austria, France, here  
and Germany.   Below is a link  if  you care to learn any  more or see some  professional  pictures. I highly suggest you check it out. It takes six years to train a horse  for show time.  There are 120     horses and each and every  one of them gets exercised and  bathed every  day.! That’s a lot of work.  These are magnificent creatures.


 

https://www.google.com/search?q=Fundacion+Real+Escuela+Andaluza+Arte+Ecuestre.&rlz=1C1NDCM_enPA689PA690&oq=Fundacion+Real+Escuela+Andaluza+Arte+Ecuestre.&aqs=chrome..69i57j0l5.3485j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

After viewing the other musuems associated with the school we popped into the Sandeman sherry house right next door. There was 1,000 casks stored in this one building but had 26, 000 total in storage. Lunch time. We  had a nice  lunch at La  Roma.  A great  Italian place where  we  had our  first pizza in Spain.  The owners started there  in 2012  coming from Itay.  So you know it was good.   Someone found out that I used to work in the biz and asked me to step up to the plate. What fun. 

On our way from the restaurant Wendy and I passed by a  dumpster that has some old tile in it.  Well, we went to work chopping and breaking old mortar away to get some to  bring home.  Bill and Frank just kept walking.  Didn’t want any part of those shenanigans. NO SIR! Well, I ended  up  with   about 5 pounds worth, enough for a lovely  stepping  stone or trivet. They guys met us near the church for  cocktails while waiting for the church and antique store to open back up after siesta time. Some very unique items in  there.  After the church viewing it was getting on 7:30 and  time for churros!  I think Frank is hooked.

http://www.sandeman.com/age-check 

Feb 5th-Tues-What an interesting day!  We learned all kinds of history at the Alcazar and learned how chicken eggs not in a shell are blown up with air and sold as a delicacy.  Below is a link  to the Alcazar if you care  to learn more or see more pics.  https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alc%C3%A1zar_of_Jerez_de_la_Frontera We spent much more time than I thought we would at the Alcazar.  It was fascinating to see the “old technology” used to build a city. Amazing considering they didn’t have power  tools.

After spending several hours at the Alcazar it was time for a bite to eat. We were strolling along the sidewalk looking for a place and this woman literally shuffled us to a table.   Good thing.  She was the owner, cook, waitress. We had  amazing meatballs cooked in sherry and olive oil, a  wonderful potato salad with garlic mayo, and beef stew that melted in our mouth. he also is a seamstress and makes flamenco dresses of which she showed up pictures. Also sewed her daughter’s wedding dress. Her daughter lives in Rochester, N.Y. Small world.

All refueled the church of San Miguel was next. Also part museum this facility held ancient robes and vestments.  http://www.parroquiasanmigueljerez.org/ Several solid silver pieces adorned the alters and alcoves.   Each and every church we have been in has had something that completely takes my breath a away.  Here is was a  stunning sliver alter base. All hand hammered of course.

We split up a little earlier than usual as I had two days of blogging to do and laundry. Frank and Wendy had ventured out on their own in the evening. I’m proud of them.  They  both have caught on rather quickly.

Feb. 6th- Thurs.  Road trip!  Hopping aboard the train to  Cadiz, pronounced cadeth, we passed pasture land and  farms.  From a distance we spied a huge bridge,  which we  would  not cross. Cadiz is an old shipping port  with  much  history.   Christopher Columbus set sail from here  for  his second  voyage and Cesar was the first  Roman governor here.         https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/C%C3%A1diz Here we spent all day exploring. Cadiz is a beautiful city  and port. Very clean. Lots of friendly people. There were too many churches to get them all in. We hit the San Juan De Dios first. Then off to the cathedral.  A nice viewing however. First we tried to hit the market but by now it was after 2:00 and most were closing up shop. We did get a quick run  through but I am most excited to see the in Seville.

 however 

  However some what  disappointing compared  to some  of the smaller  more grand churches that we have  seen so far. The one  unique  thing here was a crypt in the lower bowls of the church. The most stunning of “artwork” was also seen here. A ceremonial piece used in Santa Semana. Made entirely of solid silver. The craftsmanship is outstanding.  Once again all made by hand.  

http://www.catedraldecadiz.com/

WEndy and I are very much alike in the ways that she isn’t affraid to snap “illegal” pics when asked not to, and her love for exploring. The gabbing is great also.After the cathedral  time  for a little  beach walking.  The water is so nice and  pretty.  Clean, and no wave action what so ever. We heard  music  and  headed in that direction for a little libation. A nice setting beach side with a sax and  guitar playing  my  favorite things from the sound of music.What’s better than a drinky pooh seaside? http://www.andalucia.org/es/turismo-cultural/visitas/cadiz/museos/oratorio-de-la-santa-cueva/ And http://www.cadizturismo.com/turismo-cultural/visitas/cadiz/oratorio-san-felipe-neri/?set_language=en We saw them in reverse order listed above.  Both were very different and amazing.  I was more impressed with these two than the Cadiz Cathedral. Small but stylish and  elaborate.  The sun beginning to get low in the sky it was time to find some fish for dinner.  As I think I have stated  before, 5-8 o clock is NOT the time to be  looking for  dinner.  This is Tapas time. Most dinner places are closed.   So just that in itself was a chore.  We all had fish on the  brain of course being in a fish port.  We eventually found a little joint that had excellent fish.  I believe the owner said it was sole. A great day was had by all and we can’t  wait  to  explore Seville.

Feb. 7th Thurs.  We all had agreed to meet up at 10:00.   Frank and Wendy have been having issues with the  reservation for their next place  in Seville and that  needed some  attention.  Thinking it was all resolved  after calling the broker we took off.  I had two stops left on my list.  First was Hipisur. This is an everything equine  store.
Hipisur has everything you might need for horse-riding, selling more than 50 000 items for both jockeys and horses. Here you will also find leather bags, boots and accessories as well as unique souvenirs from Jerez. If you want to peruse https://hipisur.com/ Just down the street a couple of block is the old Bull fighting Ring.  Built in 1894 the ring “I think” was un-used from  1990 til 2012.  Not sure why.  All of the bulls that have been killed there since 1955 have been immortalized  with a tile  pictorial monument surrounding part of the building. I  can’t remember how many have not been killed but  there was but a plaque  for that year as well stating  as  much.  So, we were walking around the building and I saw a car and an open door.  Those of you who know me well  will know what I was thinking.  SO, i popped my head in  and yelled Hola! Sure enough a man came out and after  some babbling allowed us in to see the ring.  Very cool.  They had some very old posters of some of the events. Wendy and I were thinking we’d love to get our hands on one of those! But, no offer was made. We didn’t want to push our luck. Several times  this past  week we have  been the only ones allowed  in somewhere or were  in a  place by ourselves as this  is not tourist season. How special  and privileged it feels.  This happened again later in the  day in one of the  churches.  The guys spotted an Irish Pub  across from Hipisur so that’s where we took our afternoon drinks.  From there we decided to pay our friend Jaime a  visit as he was going to have fresh fish today and we  promised him we would be back for lunch. The boys met  Jaime on Tues. while Wendy and I were shopping. Anyway, he greeted us with kisses and treated us like family.  He set us up with a five course meal.  Potato salad, little fishes,  Moroccan chicken, a local bean dish, and beef kabobs.  Then, he brought us a shot of the finest sherry I have ever  tasted. Also told us we could buy it at the Duty Free cheaper than we can buy it in town.  No taxes. At $7.00 I will not  quibble. So you want to know how much? $30.00!!!   Ok, so  on with the wandering. Just trying to cover some ground  that we hadn’t before aimlessly taking left and right turns, we stumbled upon yet another church. Santiago Church.  I’m not sure they were open but the nice lady at the desk let  us in.  Then she showed us around a little, and after we  were done she spent some time with us and a book she had.  The book had pictures of Corpse Christy festival and some  of the restoration process.
The Church of Santiago is a church located in Jerez de la Frontera, Spain. It was declared Bien de Interés Cultural in 1931. Near Santiago square, the church is built outside the enclosure walled of the medieval city. In the place where there was a chapel with the same name built in times of the Spanish reconquest. 

  For pictures click on the link below.

https://foursquare.com/v/iglesia-de-santiago/4f12b895e4b045626874f7aa

Still wandering around we passed a Flamenco Hall,  and  yet another church that has been turned into a venue.  The acoustics are that good. Sun slipping, time to find a drink as the fish from lunch wanted to swim a little. Back to the main walking street for that. Then the day was topped off with churros in our favorite dessert spot. Last  for  Jerez.   Tomorrow off to  Seville.

Feb, 9th- Friday..AH, SEVILLE!!! What a wonderful,  beautiful city. I am in love already.  Take the streets of  Malaga the amount of people, shopping, restaurants, sites, and multiply it times 100.  Yeeha!  We took the 1:15 medium distant train that went 157 kph from Jerez to out town Seville next to the University where we hopped the  electric city metro to Cathedral square.   A little figuring out which direction to go and we landed on our new flat door  step. A beautiful courtyard had me hopeful. A fairly nice  area in the flat that looks over the courtyard.  Then my bubble was burst when I found out this was a shared space.  Not just with the owner but with another bedroom guest as well. Ok, I can do that.  We’ve done it already this trip.  But,  many of the lights have no bulbs, there is water leaking in  the bathroom, no microwave, or toaster,and a tiny  frig  where the  freezer compartment  needs  defrosting  to  use.  Glad it is  only temporary.  On the up side  we are  only a block from  the Cathedral and steps  away  from  tons of eating places. So, we met up with Frank  and  Wendy right outside our  door. We headed to the  information  center to pick up a  couple of maps and  started scoping things out.  We did  some walking around  to get the feel of our immediate  neighborhood. Took  in  some dinner, went to the grocery  store, then called it  quits for the night.

Feb. 9th. Sat. Seville is quite the town.  Sooo many people,  places and things to see and do!  It’s totally crazy.  There  are so many churches, and with being closed from 2-6 or 8,  I don’t think we will be able to get into them all.  Sadly.   Some are also only open for Masses, so you can’t get them all. This morning we headed right across the river to La  Triana district as the market area closes early.  Also this is where the ceramics district is. After the market we took a  nice river walk where there was some artisans. A lot of  beautiful tile work on the walls all over.

Wendy and I took off to see a church while the guys had a little brewski as Frank calls them.  We visited Iglesai Ntra Sra  De La O.https://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=es&u=https://sevillapedia.wikanda.es/wiki/Iglesia_de_la_O_(Sevilla)&prev=search

Next up was lunch.  We got a bunch of different things to try.  One was a crepe with cream cheese and salmon, potato  salad with shrimp, and steak and fries in whiskey sauce.   All were super yummy and we split a brownie and ice cream for dessert. On another river walk we saw a group of ladies with flowers around their heads and one all dressed up in kind of a traditional garb. We stopped to ask them what was going on and it was a bachelorete and her bridesmaids.   They were having all sorts of fun and getting ready to take a ride up the river.  Which we may do later in the week.  We saw a beautiful government building with a mote around it.  Then we laid eyes on the Hotel Alfonso XIII!  Oh my  goodness!  Alfonso was a king here and I believe he lived in this building.   For  some nice pics of the hotel click on the link below./https://www.marriott.com/hotels/travel/svqlc-hotel-alfonso-xiii-a-luxury-collection-hotel-seville/?scid=bb1a189a-fec3-4d19-a255-54ba596febe2 The hotel  has an antiquities dealer in it and they have some artifacts and ancient jewelry for sale.  Wendy and I went in and have never seen items this old.  I am talking 350 B.C.! I  can’t figure out how these items can be sold and taken out  of the country.  They belong in a museum. King Alfonso’s  chair is also on exhibit there as well.https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alfonso_XIII_of_Spain. Turning a corner on a back street we encountered a group of young men dressed up and playing instruments and having a drinking contest.  We also saw a monument to Christopher  Columbus  and  walked around the wall of the Alcazar.  Time for a drink  and Frank wanted to try Paella. Walking home just ask  dusk we saw the Cathedral lit up with the moon.  Stunning.  What a wonderful eye filled day.